Thursday, April 21, 2011

Hung Ry hand-pulled noodles

We ate at Hung Ry last night with Ben D.

Mabel and I had been wanting to try the noodles there since seeing this Times piece earlier in the year. She was also obsessed with Chinese handpulled noodles a couple years ago, and this seemed like a good way to renew the obsession.

The noodles were fantastic. They were perfectly satisfying on their own. Nice and chewy. The chicken and bitter greens broth was the best of the ones we tried. The lamb broth was strangely flat, and the pork belly broth had a bit too much liquid smoke.

Their appetizers sounded really interesting. We tried the monkfish liver, rabbit rillettes, and lamb belly. The monkfish liver was pressed into a pate which had a nice mussel flavor to it. Mabel didn't like the texture. The rabbit rillettes was tasty, but they didn't give us any bread or bread-like substitute for it. Mabel pointed out, correctly, that we were eating at a noodle place, and I shouldn't be so critical.

I was super excited about their lamb belly. The only other time I'd seen lamb belly on a menu was at Momofuku Ssam Bar 4 years ago. Hung Ry's version was respectable, but I think there's a reason why you're not seeing lamb belly on menus everywhere. But the dish came with a crisp, roasted dandelion green garnish that was fun to eat.

Service felt strangely uncoordinated, like everything was always half a beat off. Dishes being called the wrong thing, servers and the hostess running into diners. It's only worth mentioning because the restaurant seems to be aiming for a higher level of service. But in the end it's a noodle place. I'll be coming back for the noodles.

Hung Ry
55 Bond St (btn Lafayette & Bowery)
New York, NY 10012
(212) 677-4864

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